Monday, 16 November 2015

Freehand Fashion: Asymmetrical peplum jacket

Hello all! I'm really excited to be part of the blog tour for Chinelo's new book: Freehand Fashion. It's primary purpose is to show sewers how to draft things straight onto fabric without using a pattern. It was a very interesting technique for me to try and to compare to the flat pattern drafting and draping on the stand that I've learnt at uni in the last month or so.
Basic sewing techniques feature at the beginning, followed by a handy measurements table that you can write your measurements into. I found the diagrams really useful to show me where each measurement should be measured from which made them as accurate as possible. I recommend double checking them, because if they aren't accurate your finished garment will not fit as well.
There are 15 projects in the book of various difficulties using either the bodice block, dress block, flare block or sleeve block as a base. I chose to make the asymmetrical peplum jacket as I was in the market for a new coat as it's getting colder. Fabric needs are noted separately for each pattern piece which makes it a bit of a faff to work out how much you need in total. Although if you were planning colour-blocking it's really useful. I guessed 2.5m and I used about 1m less than that, though I did reduce the flare in the peplum.
And here is my finished jacket! It is somewhat inspired by Diors famous 'new look' although I couldn't quite achieve the corseted silhouette which makes his design look so sharp. I purposefully took out most of the flare, making it 1/4 circle instead of the full circle, my reasoning being that it would be more wearable with fuller skirts. I kept it symmetical but now I look at the pictures, I think it would look really good if it was asymmetrical. I do think it needed a little more fullness for it to sit better around the hips.
The instructions for the jacket tell you which steps of the bodice block are relevant for this project. The sleeve block and the flare block were also used. I did all the drafting on paper so if there were any adjustments needed they would be easier to apply to the outer fabric (I used the lining as a mock up). I did have to recut the sleeves because I got the measurements completely wrong.
Fitting wise, there is some excess fabric at the back armhole and the shoulders are too wide but I'm really pleased with the fit of the front bodice especially. Although more ease would need to be added if I wanted to wear more than one layer under it.
I love the massive collar,, although it would be interesting to see whether it would behave differently if cut on the bias. 
Finishing wise the jacket is fully lined in a contrasting black lining. I lugged my sewing machine home for the weekend (I had to go back to get my braces tightened, joy of joys) and only realised when I got there that the cable was sitting on my desk in my uni room! So I had to construct the outer of my jacket using the overlocker and sew the hem and armholes by hand because I then ran out of overlocker thread. I used poppers to fasten the jacket for a more streamlined look. There is a running stitch down each side of the lining which it needed to keep it from peeking out.
All in all, it was really interesting to try a new way of drafting patterns. It's definitely quicker to do than the flat pattern drafting method I've been taught. I think it may be more straightforward to follow if you have no drafting experience because I kept second guessing the instructions, and actually if you just follow them, surprise surprise, it works!
I have a copy of Freehand Fashion to give away! (UK only) Just comment below and make sure that your email address is easy for me to find.
These are the other people taking part in the blog tour:
Some have already blogged about their creations and some will be blogging them this week.
Thursday 12th November
English Girl at Home http://englishgirlathome.com/
Friday 13th November
Saturday 14th November
A Stitching Odyssey http://www.astitchingodyssey.com/
Sunday 15th November

Monday 16th November
Lady Sew a Lot http://ladysewalot.blogspot.co.uk/    (Me)
Tuesday 17th November
Wednesday 18th November
House of Pinheiro http://houseofpinheiro.com

Thanks for reading, to Pavilion Crafts for asking me to review the book and to Ed for taking photos!
Lauren xx

59 comments:

  1. Love it! I'm also currently making a white jacket inspired by Dior's Barr jacket, I'm using a Gertie pattern which is based on the Dior original. I want to give it full attention so am saving it up to work on over Christmas

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Charlotte! I can't wait to see it.

      Delete
  2. Lovely, looks great in the white. I like the reduced flare in the peplum, gives it an edge. Please include me in the giveaway. My email is: perryfamily75(at)gmail(dot)com thank you x

    ReplyDelete
  3. This is a very interesting review. I have never tried this technique. Love the jacket too. I was considering Burdastyle 08/2013 but having seen your version may have to aim for something similar instead. Lovely for autumn winter. Please do enter me into the prize draw since I would love to have a go at this kind of pattern drafting myself and this book sounds really good. http://brackencrafts.blogspot.co.uk/

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I've worn my jacket so much this week already.

      Delete
  4. Excited to try this method. Thanks for your review.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It really is a very interesting technique.

      Delete
  5. I would love this! Heatherfieldgate(at)yahoo(dot)co(dot)uk

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thank you for reviewing, been looking toward to the book coming out for a while! Thought Chinelo was fantastic on GBSB.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Wow! I'm so impressed with your skills. I remember the lovely things she created on GBSB. Not sure I could ever achieve something like that, but oburren(at)hotmail(dot)com if I'm lucky ... I'm pleased that you're still finding time to post, I'm very excited to see how your uni course will affect the way you sew.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I'm sure you could make one of the projects from the book without too much trouble. I really wanted to be able to continue blogging through uni, and I'm very lucky to have found some friends that don't mind taking pictures for me.

      Delete
  8. Great review thanks! Love how you have your coat in such beautiful line with your dress! n.branderhorst(at)gmail(dot)com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was so pleased when I tried them both on together!

      Delete
  9. You look so elegant in your new jacket!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Love your jacket! So sophisticated! I would really love to have a go at this freehand thing but would have no idea where to begin...maybe a copy of this book would do the trick ;)
    H.

    ReplyDelete
  11. You look great in your new jacket!
    I've been following this blog tour every day for sneak peeks of the projects.
    Please enter me in the giveaway.
    kimlimdickson@live.com

    ReplyDelete
  12. I loved Chinelo on GBSB so I'm excited to try her techniques. No more patterns!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It really was interesting to see how her magic works.

      Delete
  13. Your jacket looks fab and I love the way you've styled it, very chic! :-) I would love to be entered into the giveaway for the book. My email address is megandotparkinsondotukatgmaildotcom.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I can't wait to try it out with lots of different outfits.

      Delete
  14. I would love to win this book! Your Jacket looks amazing! ahsh.frampton@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  15. I've got this book so I don't want to be in the giveaway: I just wanted to say that I love what you've made, very dramatic and a great fit. Exactly what I'm hoping to achieve from using this book and this technique!

    ReplyDelete
  16. Is the course a bit stressful? You don't look as happy any more...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hahaha, I was channeling the Dior models expression!

      Delete
  17. Great job on the jacket.Thanks for the giveaway. choistie at yahoo dot com

    ReplyDelete
  18. Your jacket looks great. Would love to get the book and have a go too.

    ReplyDelete
  19. I'd love to win this book - I've been looking forward to finding out more about Chinelo's technique! Thank you. clarembentley@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's a really interesting technique to study.

      Delete
  20. This looks really good, I think the style suits you. I'd love to have a go! Thewardrobearchitect@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  21. I definitely love your look with the black gloves on white coat. This is so classy! and your coat is super nice :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I borrowed the gloves from Mum for the shoot and just won a pair of my own from eBay because I like them so much!

      Delete
  22. All your makes are amazing, but I particularly love this! Would love to try!
    Chloe_noakes@hotmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  23. Hi, I am a big fan of your blog and it's great to see a different sort of project for the winter months. Please enter me into the giveaway amy_559@hotmail.com
    Also if you have a moment I have been meaning to reach out to ask you some questions about your formal textile training/qualifications/ career, as I am teetering on the edge of a career change myself and would appreciate some words of advice. Please feel free to contact me on the email noted previously if you get the time/ inclination to do so!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, thanks for your lovely comment! I've emailed you, and look forward to hearing back.

      Delete
  24. This book looks great. I love chinelos skills! Your jacket is so good, I love that collar!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I also love the collar, and wouldn't be surprised if it featured on future projects.

      Delete
  25. this looks great! i've always wanted to learn how to draft freehand, so this book looks perfect :) thank you for the giveaway, and i hope uni is going well for you! beththegulfmini@googlemail.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! It's such an interesting method. Uni is going great, I've learnt so much already!

      Delete
  26. The back and front look perfect! I can see the excess you were talking about around the back armhole. It doesnt look like much though so if you did it again, i can see it being an easy fix! I'd love to try some of the projects
    thetelltaletasha@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! Precisely. It should be a fairly easy fix.

      Delete
  27. Love the jacket - I think it looks amazing!

    ReplyDelete
  28. I think your jacket came out well. I'd love to try out this method as I am never happy with the fit when buying regular dress patterns. fiona[dot]karbal[at]btinternet[dot]com

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! It would certainly save some time.

      Delete
  29. Wow, you did a good job . It looks fab x
    Iain.ross30 at gmail dot com

    ReplyDelete
  30. Nice post. thanks for the shared it with us. Siro Yarn

    ReplyDelete
  31. Love it. Would you mind me sharing this on Sassy Sewing Bees in the future? I link to your post and let you know when shared. SSB - https://www.facebook.com/SassySewingBees

    ReplyDelete