Friday 19 June 2015

Ginger Flares

Good morrow everyone! I've finally had a crack at some Ginger Jeans.  After seeing an instagram pic of some flares I couldn't get them out of my mind. When I read about the 70s comeback a couple of months ago, I thought it was awful. Fashion should be moving forwards, not backwards! Anyway, here I am, with my new flares. And I might have just made a button-front denim A-line skirt as well. What can I say! I didn't get to live the 70s first time around, but at least I can pick out the best bits now!
 It's not a jeans silhouette I've tried before, but I reckoned that if I didn't like it I could just slim down the legs, following the original pattern. To make the hem flared I followed the instructions in my pattern drafting book, which were pretty easy to follow. I tried to pay special attention when cutting, to make sure the pattern pieces were on grain, but the inner leg seams twist forwards pretty dramatically. Next time I'll cut on a single layer to be sure it's on grain.
The sewing up of the jeans went okay. I didn't bother with flatfelled seams but instead overlocked and topstitched them down. I used navy top-stitching thread, which only has a slight contrast. I used a patterned denim bought on a trip to Edinburgh last year.
 It doesn't have much stretch so I cut out a size 2 which is a couple of inches bigger than my hip measurement. The fit was perfect at the hips, but I needed to loosen them up a bit at the knees. Attaching the fly front zip went surprisingly well, following the sewalong! The way the pockets are attached is genius. I combined the back yoke and back leg piece and cut them out as 1.
I was so pleased with the buttonhole! Buttonholes look so much nicer when sewn using top-stitching thread! The really cute jeans button I bought in a pack of 10 from ebay. The topstitching is mostly on track. Luckily the bits that are off track aren't too noticeable in the navy thread.

To fully embrace the 70s vibe I thought I'd bring out some of the clothes Grandma made and I inherited. The front of the waist coat is all hand embroidered beautifully!
It must have taken forever! Embroidery with mirrors is known as Shisha Embroidery. It's a classic Indian textile art and 'Shisha' means 'Little glass' in Hindi. There are 3 islamic beliefs about mirrors: They trap the evil eyes reflection, reflect the eye away from the wearer or blind the evil eye, so they are there as protection for the wearer. The mirrors are traditionally made from blown glass which is silvered on the back and broken into various shapes and sizes. The mirrors are secured with a tight framework, and no glue is used. The framework covers the mirror face and is pulled aside by cretan stitches leaving the mirror exposed in the centre,
This tunic has little seashells as buttons, and applique at the cuffs and centre front.
But, there is just as much going on in the back! There is some more shisha embroidery and applique. I love the amount of skill, patience and work that must have gone on these garments. Even though I don't wear them on a daily basis, I'm glad that I brought them out for this photoshoot.
So, I'm really pleased with my jeans! I've decided that I like flares and now I want to make all of the jeans! Exams are now over, so it's time for a summer of sewing!!! Thank you to Edward for taking pictures!
Lauren xx